When buying wood furniture, there are several characteristics to look for to discover the best quality. Though most of the structural details of furniture are hidden for decorative reasons, it is important to inspect the construction of every piece of furniture you're considering. Remember, looks can be deceiving - it's the details that count.

Construction
One of the most tale-tell signs of an item's strength or weakness is the method by which joints are put together. One of the most satisfactory constructions is glued mortise and tenon joints. These joints secure two pieces of wood together and multiply the gluing surface area.

Mortise & Tenon Joints


Dowel Joints

Dowel joints are another commonly used method for strong joints. Joints should be smooth, tight, flush in themselves and not built up to smoothness with wood or plastic filler. Corner blocks (literally small pieces of wood glued into strategic corners) should be used to strengthen the joints even more and ensure that the furniture piece remains square.

Look at the back panels of the case good - are they nailed and screwed or simply stapled? The purpose of the back panel is to provide support to the entire case. Nails and screws help to serve this purpose, staples don't.

Levelers should be attached to the bottoms of large pieces of furniture. While good furniture is made "square," houses tend to settle and slope. Levelers are the perfect way to prevent your furniture from looking "crooked."

The "Open and Shut" Case on Drawers
Drawers should neither be too tight nor too loose.

Dovetail joints help to strengthen drawers by locking two pieces of wood together.

Dovetail Joints

Have you ever thought your desk drawer was "eating" your pens or your dresser drawer was "gobbling" your socks? Complete dustproofing between all drawers will prevent air, dust, pens and papers from passing between drawers. You shouldn't be able to take drawers out and see a big open space.

All drawers and doors should be aligned, ensuring visible uniformity of lines on the front of the case. If the drawers and doors look wobbly from a distance, they are not aligned.

Pulling your drawer out should not be a workout. Center glides, stops, and good-quality hardware will help drawers move smoothly.

The interior of drawers should also be satin smooth. Rub your hands on the sides, bottom, and back of drawers - if they're rough, you're sure to find splinters in your socks sooner or later.

The Finishing Touches
Read the hangtags for information on the kind of wood and its care.

A fine finish is hard, smooth and even, with no bubbles or flaws. Moisture or alcohol can stain a fine finish, so wood needs some protection and care. Exposed ends of wood should have the end grain covered by a layer of veneer.

Stain or varnish should be applied evenly and to a uniform thickness, without light or dark spots; however, some popular finishes today are purposely "distressed" or "antiqued."

Painted or lacquered finishes are easy to clean, but they are also prone to denting and scratching.

Super finishes such as synthetic varnish, epoxy, vinyl, polyurethane and catalyzed lacquer are highly durable and resistant to alcohol.

Most good furniture requires from 9 to 15 steps to have a finish that will last a lifetime, including: (Some of these steps are repeated mumerous times to achieve the richest finish.)

• The wood must be sealed for protection against moisture.
• A base coat is applied.
• A first coat of stain is applied and hand-wiped.
• Hand sanding.
• A clear lacquer is sprayed to protect the wood and finish from daily use.
• Hand polishing.

Wood is a natural product. Being made out of a natural product, case goods are subject to variations in the wood grain. Some of these variations are more distinctive than others. This should not be a cause of concern but rather a unique signature of the piece.